Rouen

One of my trips this spring was to Rouen, capital of Upper Normandy, a city since Roman times.  Joan of Arc died here, King Richard the Lionhearted is buried here, French novelist Gustave Flaubert of Madame Bovary fame lived here and Monet endlessly painted the cathedral from a perch in the building across the road.

Clock Tower

Rouen Street

Joan of Arc
Rouen Cathedral

Rouen Cathedral

One of the joys of walking in the old city is the number of beautiful 15th-18th century half-timbered buildings one finds.  Another is the size of the pedestrian zone, which makes gawking highly feasible.  There is also a lovely clock tower in a medieval gate (now no longer on the edge of town) and a terrific market building.  The cathedral is a beautiful example of French Gothic style, built starting in 1200 after a fire destroyed much of a previous church building.   It is still suffering from an allied bombardment in April 1944.   The exterior is so well known it seems silly to give you one of my inadequate photos of the facade, but the interior contains some wonderful items, including the lovely staircase on the right, a charming modern statue of Joan of Arc (left), and this beautiful altar in one of the side chapels.  I think the angels are simply stunning and done with such delicacy.  This isn't really old work, but it demonstrates that the old artistry has not been lost to time.                                              

Side Altar, Rouen Cathedral

Faience Coffre

Faience Tray 

Faience Globe
of the Heavens

I spent a quiet afternoon in the Ceramics Museum which has a collection of 16th to 18th century faience pieces from this region.  Along with Quimper in Normandy, Rouen was an early center for making this pottery in the 14th-16th centuries.  Faience is a technique for glazing and firing clay at much higher temperatures than pottery by adding tin to the glaze.  Faience is, thus, more durable than pottery but less so than porcelain.  The pieces were amazing and here are a few.
                                                                                                                           

Church of St. Joan of Arc
Stained Glass Windows

Statue of Joan of Arc

Finally, I should note the new and very modern church dedicated to Joan of Arc in Rouen's Market Square.  This stained glass window gives a sense of the architectural design of the 1970's church (formed like an upturned boat) and the statue of Joan is a beautiful modern interpretation of the Maid of Orleans, the flames holding votive candles.   Burned at the stake in the Market Square in 1431, she continues to capture our imaginations nearly 600 years later.