Oslo

Oslo Waterfront

Oslo seems a lot like Gothenburg.  It is a small capital of a small country (at least in terms of population).  Even more than Sweden, Norway's population is increasingly concentrated in its capital.  What I took away from this all-too-short visit is the affection of Norwegians for being out-of-doors in any weather.  Where else would you find a statue of the king on cross-country skis accompanied by his little dog?

The city lies at the end of a large fjord and pleasure boats cram its waterfront.  There is a large ski jump in a park on a hill above the city center (a legacy of hosting the Olympics) and it is used all year long -- for zip lining or in-line skating in the summer and for ski jumping in the winter.  Forests surround the city, so it is only a short drive to cross-country ski and snow-shoe trails, which are also great for hiking in better weather.

When oil was discovered in the North Sea in 1969, the Norwegians went from being one of the poorest countries in Europe to one of the richest.  But they've managed their oil wealth very intelligently, investing in education, health care and infrastructure.  Their egalitarian approach to living in society means they wear their new-found comfort lightly.  Most of the Americans on the tours I've taken gasped when told that people pay taxes of 30, 40 or 50% and are entirely satisfied with the bargain they've made with their government for services in return.  It seems incredible to Americans that this hefty blend of capitalism and social consciousness actually works.

Oslo's Old Fortress

Oslo Opera House

Needless to say, while the old is cherished, the new is embraced.  Oslo's old defensive walls are still in evidence on the waterfront, but Oslo also boasts an opera house on the water.  This one, however, has a roof that looks like a ski jump itself and is used for outdoor seating when concerts are given on a barge anchored in the bay in the summer.

The Norwegians are as environmentally aware as their Scandinavian cousins.  Blessed with abundant hydro power, they've tackled the automotive part of energy consumption and estimate that 40% of the cars on their roads are electric.  There were certainly Teslas everywhere I looked.

Vigeland Park
Mother and Child

Vigeland Park
Crying Baby

Vigeland Park
Youngsters at Play

What is most unusual about Oslo is Vigeland Park, created by a Norwegian sculptor, Gustav Vigeland, who died in 1943 virtually unknown outside his own country.  The park is filled with a series of statues that describe the cycle of life and Vigeland turns his eyes away from none of it.  From a tiny fetus to a dying old man, all the ages and stages of life are represented.  Toping it all is a huge column of bodies that seem to be tumbling from the sky.  I found the whole thing very moving, in part because the sculptures, some in bronze and some in granite, are so vivid, but also because of the setting and their placement in the park.

Vigeland Park
Grandfather with child